27/02/2026
THE LOOMING CRISIS
Is fairer really better?
A few years ago I joined an online community of new mothers and was taken aback to find several women of West African origin (specifically Nigerian) asking for advice on how to lighten their babies’ skin. At the time, I did not realize how widespread the issue had become until a documentary by the BBC highlighted the growing crisis.
In many parts of Africa today, fair skin is still perceived as more attractive and in some cases, offering a social and economic advantage. This reflects colorism - an infra-racial complexion-based hierarchy, that often affords societal, cultural, economic privileges and favoritism towards lighter skinned people and discrimination against those with darker complexions.
At a recent conference with key players in the skincare industry, one of the major concerns raised was the increasing number of women seeking treatment for severely damaged and sensitized skin stemming from prolonged use of unregulated skin bleaching products.
These bootleg concoctions mixed in the backstreets continue to be sold openly in defiance of official bans and constraints. In places like River Road, it is common to encounter vendors selling the so called “mafuta”.
Many of these black market skin lightening soaps, creams and lotions contain dangerously high levels of chemicals like hydroquinone, mercury & steroids. These substances can not only damage respiratory, kidney, nervous, digestive, immune and reproductive systems but can potentially deform unborn babies.
As at 2024, research estimated the global skin bleaching industry to be worth approximately USD 31.2 billion. Why does it continue to grow? It often stems from emotional dependence. Many individuals who begin using skin lightening products feel compelled to maintain the results. Over time, the practice becomes cyclical.
Here’s an important fact: Melanin helps protect the skin from environmental damage and darker skin tends to show signs of aging more slowly. Through bleaching, some of these protective benefits are lost.
Addressing the crisis requires more than government regulation. It calls for honest conversations about skin color, deeper public education and a collective effort to build confidence and self- acceptance; moving beyond the standards of beauty that have dominated global media for decades.
📸The Whistler Newspaper
