07/28/2026
What does travel give us that tourism never can?
I've come to believe that the most meaningful parts of a journey are rarely the ones we plan. They're the moments when someone opens the door to their everyday life and, for a little while, invites us in.
This photograph takes me back to one of those moments.
Fifteen years ago, my husband and I traveled to Atauro Island, a tiny island off the coast of Timor-Leste in Southeast Asia. At the time, there was just one eco-lodge on the island, run by a local family. We arrived by an old speedboat, bounced across the sea, and left behind most of the comforts we take for granted. I don't remember there being electricity, and there certainly wasn't air conditioning. It was hot. Really hot.
But it was also one of those rare places that makes you feel privileged simply to be there.
Timor-Leste sits in the heart of the Coral Triangle, with some of the most spectacular snorkeling and diving we’ve ever experienced. We could walk straight off the beach into vibrant coral reefs, and we swam through currents near an underwater rift so deep that submarines reportedly passed through it.
And yet...
When I think about Atauro Island today, I don't picture the reef.
I picture story time.
The family's children adopted me for that afternoon and I found myself sitting on the porch reading A Particular Cow while they crowded around, laughing at the pictures and turning the pages before I was ready.
That quiet afternoon has stayed with me far longer than anything I saw underwater.
It reminds me that the greatest gift of travel isn't collecting beautiful places. It's connecting with the people who call those places home.
That's what this week's essay is about. The difference between tourism and travel, and why, after my many years of exploring the world, I think the moments that change us most are usually the ones that never appear on an itinerary.
I'd love to hear about a place where you stopped feeling like a tourist and started feeling, even briefly, like you belonged.
A link to the full story is in the comments 👇