Dr Orizi

28/08/2026

💄 Vietbeauty & Cosmobeauté Vietnam 2026 has just wrapped in Ho Chi Minh City — the biggest edition the show has staged.

750+ exhibitors from 25 countries, 3,500+ brands, and a record 17,600 sqm at SECC over 23–25 July. Three things stood out on the cosmetics side: Beautycare Plus ran as a full supply-chain zone covering ingredients, packaging, OEM/ODM and private label; the new Cosmobeauté Live Zone put livestream selling right on the show floor; and compliance — product notification, ingredient documentation, IP — took main-stage time at Beauté Talks 2026.

For anyone building a skincare or colour range, the message is simple: sourcing, content and compliance now have to be planned together, not one after the other. The dossier you prepare for one ASEAN market carries most of the way into the next one.

Here is our full read for cosmetics brand owners 👉 https://www.orizigroup.com/three-signals-we-read-from-vietbeauty-cosmobeaute-vietnam-2026/

Vietbeauty & Cosmobeauté Vietnam 2026 filled a record 17,600 sqm at SECC. We read three signals in it that change how Malaysian brand owners should scope an OEM project.

27/08/2026

There is one sentence that decides most "skin longevity" projects, and it is not a formulation question.

In Malaysia, a cosmetic label may say a product "slows down or delays signs of ageing". It may not say the product reverses the ageing process, repairs DNA, boosts skin metabolism or stimulates collagen production. Those all sit on NPRA's unacceptable-claims list for cosmetic skin products - and so does the word "cosmeceutical".

The science behind skin longevity is real and getting more rigorous. But a brief written in that language almost always needs translating before anything gets weighed.

What we have found works is running it backwards: agree the one sentence the label is allowed to say, build the formula to it, then book the substantiation study when the formula is approved rather than when the artwork is.

One more thing worth knowing. An ingredient supplier's study describes the raw material at a set concentration in a set test vehicle. It is not evidence about your finished product, and that gap is where most late-stage claim problems begin.

Full article: https://www.orizigroup.com/a-skin-longevity-brief-is-a-claims-decision-before-it-is-a-formula/



https://www.orizigroup.com/a-skin-longevity-brief-is-a-claims-decision-before-it-is-a-formula/

24/08/2026

"Just take the preservative out." It sounds like one change. It is really about five.

When a clean beauty brief restricts the preservative palette, the formula has to live inside a much narrower pH window. And the botanical extracts and plant waters that usually come with the same brief add nutrients that microbes are happy to use. So the product ends up less protected and more inviting to contamination at the same time. Even the packaging matters here, because an airless pump protects a lightly preserved formula in a way an open jar simply cannot.

None of that is a reason to say no to a clean brief. It is a reason to decide preservation FIRST, and let texture, colour and fragrance work inside the window it allows. Deciding it last is what makes the fixes expensive, because by then every change is one the customer can see.

Fenny Yip has written up what actually changes in the lab, plus the trade-off table we use at the start of a project: https://www.orizigroup.com/clean-natural-formulation-preservation-challenge/



https://www.orizigroup.com/clean-natural-formulation-preservation-challenge/

24/08/2026

Sensitive skin is the hardest brief we get in the lab. "Make it gentle, but make it work" usually turns into removing ingredients until there is nothing left doing any work.

So a new active out of Spain caught our attention this month. Vytrus Biotech's Toleroxyl does not try to calm skin after it reacts. It targets the Langerhans cells in the epidermis, the ones that decide whether skin should react at all. The company calls the category a "tolerogen".

To be clear: we have not formulated with it. We are reading what the supplier has published, and quite a lot has not been released yet. But it is on our watchlist, and for an unusual reason. It is a protein, and a protein changes how you have to run the whole batch.

Our first look: https://www.orizigroup.com/why-a-protein-active-changes-every-question-we-ask-our-first-look-at-toleroxyl/



https://www.orizigroup.com/why-a-protein-active-changes-every-question-we-ask-our-first-look-at-toleroxyl/

30/07/2026

Ever wondered why a melting body butter bar is so much harder to make than an ordinary moisturiser?

The two can share almost the same ingredients. The difference is structure. A cream is forgiving, and can be filled across a fairly wide temperature window and still be exactly what the brand approved. A butter bar is not, because the structure IS the product. Pour it too hot or cool it too quickly and the wax crystal network changes, which changes both how it looks and how it melts on skin. Do the same with a gel full of little suspended beads and the beads either settle in the tank or burst on their way through the nozzle.

Then there is our climate. A texture designed to soften at skin temperature will happily soften inside a warm warehouse or a delivery van too. That is why we care more about temperature-cycling data than about how lovely a sample feels in an air-conditioned meeting room.

We wrote up the five questions we work through whenever a brand brings us a texture-led idea:

https://www.orizigroup.com/why-a-melting-body-butter-bar-is-harder-to-manufacture-than-a-cream/



https://www.orizigroup.com/why-a-melting-body-butter-bar-is-harder-to-manufacture-than-a-cream/

17/07/2026

"Resilience" is becoming the word we keep coming back to in the lab this year. 🧪

The 2026 shift in skincare isn't about quick fixes or another miracle ingredient — it's about formulas that protect, adapt and recover under the conditions people actually live in. Here's an honest look at what our R&D team is watching (and what we're not claiming yet).

https://www.orizigroup.com/why-resilience-is-the-word-we-keep-coming-back-to-in-2026/

A first-person look at why the personal care industry's 2026 shift toward resilience is changing what our R&D conversations sound like.

14/07/2026

Collagen actives just got an AI upgrade! BASF and Bota Biosciences have launched SkinNexus (TM) Collag3n, a vegan Collagen III active engineered to match your skin's own collagen sequence, after screening 2,000+ candidates with an AI-driven biomanufacturing platform. Early data points to real improvements in skin firmness and fine lines. We're not using it in any product yet, but our lab keeps a close eye on breakthroughs like this. Curious what "AI-designed skincare" means for your routine? Read more here: https://www.orizigroup.com/watching-basf-skinnexus-collag3n-ai-collagen-iii-active/

https://www.orizigroup.com/watching-basf-skinnexus-collag3n-ai-collagen-iii-active/

27/06/2026

🔬 Here's an ingredient that's caught our eye in the lab — Malvallin™ by Croda Beauty. ✨

It's a COSMOS-approved Chinese mallow extract that works across three skin layers at once (hypodermis, dermis and epidermis) — so a single botanical can support firmness, volume, radiance AND skin barrier. Pretty clever for 'skin longevity' formulas.

We're exploring where it could fit in future skincare ranges. Curious what a 3D-active could mean for your next product? 👉 https://www.oemhallmark.com/blog/malvallin-croda-3d-active-skin-longevity



https://www.oemhallmark.com/blog/malvallin-croda-3d-active-skin-longevity

27/06/2026

💄 Southeast Asia's biggest beauty event just wrapped — and Cosmoprof CBE ASEAN 2026 set a new bar.

Held at the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center in Bangkok from 24–26 June, the 5th edition brought together 730+ exhibitors across 33,000 sqm, with Italy as Country of Honour. The talk of the show for cosmetics players? The brand-new Cosmopack CBE ASEAN hall — ingredients, OEM/ODM and packaging all in one place.

The standout themes this year: waterless & refillable formats, K-beauty actives moving into regional ranges, and a strong pull toward local contract manufacturing for skincare and colour.

Bottom line for brand owners — the regional supply chain has truly matured. Planning a cosmetics line and need an OEM/ODM partner in Malaysia? Let's chat. 👉 https://www.oemhallmark.com/blog/cosmoprof-cbe-asean-2026-bangkok-recap

The 5th edition of Cosmoprof CBE ASEAN (24–26 June 2026, QSNCC Bangkok) set new records with 730+ exhibitors across 33,000 sqm and introduced Cosmopack CBE ASEAN for the first time — a dedicated supply-chain floor covering ingredients, OEM/ODM, contract manufacturing and packaging. Italy served ...